Cassoeula or cazzoeula

When winter envelops the Lombard countryside, Cassoeula or cazzoeula emerges as an emblematic dish, capable of warming the coldest evenings. This rich stew of pork ribs and rind, enriched with carrots and cabbages, represents a peasant tradition that is rooted in the genuine flavors of Lombardy. The technique of sautéing the vegetables in the cooking fat of the meats, thus extracting a deep and enveloping flavor, is essential for achieving a result that satisfies even the most discerning palates. The choice of Colonnata lard, with its savory note and complex aroma, gives the dish that extra touch that makes it perfect for a Sunday family lunch or a dinner among friends. Served with polenta or homemade bread, Cassoeula transforms into a moment of sharing, an invitation to savor the richness of Lombard culinary tradition.

Sauté carrots, celery, and onion with diced lard or pancetta; you can also season by rendering the fat from good local pork ribs, removing them from the pan and sautéing the vegetables in the resulting juices. Brown with a small addition of concentrated tomato sauce and add the ribs. After cleaning the pork rind, blanch it in boiling water and cut it into pieces. Add it to the ribs and continue cooking slowly; at this point, you can add the "verzini", which are special lean fresh sausages, stuffed with a mixture containing grated cheese and moistened with wine. If you have managed to procure cabbages that have been exposed to frost, after cleaning the fibrous stem from the first leaves, which should be cut into pieces, add the heart by peeling it into the pot, continuing to cook slowly. The cooking times for the ribs depend on the breed and origin of the pig: just over a couple of hours for those from intensive farming, up to over four hours for local pigs. Adjust with salt and pepper.

Options: you can add a small glass of grappa, cognac, or wine immediately after browning. In various regions, some add other parts of the pig to the rind, ribs, and verzini: trotters, ears, jowl, or throat. If the cabbages have not been exposed to frost, clean them very thoroughly and blanch them in salted water for a few minutes; finally, dry them well before adding them to the pork. It is the "cassoeula" of all poor Lombardy, which ate scraps and sold the choice parts of the pig, perhaps since Rotari, the Lombard king, regulated pig farming in his code. Remember that "...the cazzoeula must be well thickened and not runny and soupy!" (A. Strazza)