In Milan province ‘Risotto alla Milanese’ is a real institution. It’s impossible to have avoided ever tasting it and, above all, inconceivable not to know how to prepare it. Here we present the original recipe, which includes the addition of bone marrow, which you should have if you are also making ‘Ossibuchi alla Milanese’, and a little fat from some roast meat, which is optional. The real Milanese eat it with a spoon. The ‘Brianza’ and the ‘milanes arios’ douse the rice with red wine before adding the broth, so to make up for the absence of roast meat fat, which will not be available except on special occasions, because their roast meat is often cooked with wine. This use has spread as the ‘Milanese style’. It’s also important to form a ‘wave’ - that is, where all the grains of rice are smoothly connected together. And this is the basis for making other recipes: ‘salted’ risotto; baked rice ‘pie’ with roast pigeons, ‘filoni’, sweetbreads and dried mushrooms - cooked separately - and truffles; and risotto croquettes, breaded and fried in butter. For some of these preparations we recommend combining the risotto with one or two whole eggs.
Simmer gently over low heat until the onions take on a golden colour. Add the rice and stir it well so that it can absorb the seasoning.